|
BRICK
PAVER
Paths, Patios & More
Provided by the Brick Association of the Carolinas.
 STEP
1 Preparing Your Site
The first step in a sand-based installation is to remove enough
soil to allow for 3-4" of "crusher-run" gravel
(about 8" for a driveway), 1"-11/2" of "concrete"
sand or stone screenings, and the thickness of your selected
pavers. The excavated area should extend about 6" beyond
the area you plan to pave to provide an adequate foundation
and allow for proper drainage.
STEP 2 Compacting
the Sub-Soil
After excavation is complete, the exposed sub-soil needs to
be compacted, either by using a vibrating plate compactor
(available from most equipment rental shops), or allowing
the area to stand through several rains or soakings with a
hose.
 STEP
3 Gravel & Drainage
Following soil compaction, it's time to add the gravel. Although
it may not be necessary for small or low-traffic areas, gravel
will help keep your paved area level for years. (When in doubt
about this or any other detail of installation, we suggest
that you consult with a landscaping professional.) For proper
drainage, you will want to slope the excavated site about
1/4" per foot (1" every 4') without exceeding 1/2"
per foot.
STEP 4 Edging
Edging, which can be done before or after laying the pavers,
is necessary to hold a "no-mortar" installation
in place. It can consist of a run of bricks on-edge, trowel-finished
concrete with backfill soil, or increasingly popular continuous
plastic or metal retainers. If your selected pattern or plan
involves a lot of brick cutting, edging is more easily and
accurately accomplished afterwards.
 STEP
5 Bedding Sand & Screeding
Don't be tempted to compensate for an improperly compacted
or unlevel sub-soil (or sub-base) condition in this step.
Such a seemingly "innocent" adjustment will ultimately
result in an uneven surface and unwanted settling. Make sure
the sub-surface is properly prepared. Next, place two parallel
lengths of 1" pipe on the gravel approximately 6' apart
(to serve as runners). Cover the sub-base with sand (or stone
screenings) to a depth of 1½" or less. The bedding
sand or screenings need to be screeded (the process of leveling
this surface using a long straight edge), so pull a 2"x4"
across the sand atop the 2 pipes, removing any excess.
Don't worry about any voids in the sand's surface,
including those caused by the pipes. These can simply be hand-filled
and troweled smooth as you lay your bricks. Work from freshly
screeded sand, and avoid walking on your leveled surface.
If rain threatens before this work is completed, remember
to keep your sand dry, using a plastic cover.
 STEP
6 Laying Your Brick
With your pattern chosen (suggested patterns are shown on
the next page) begin laying brick from any convenient corner.
If your paving is adjacent to a solid structure (such as a
wall), you'll want to work out from there. Set the pavers
lightly on the sand, never pressing them or hammering them
in. Remember to stop 6" short of the originally excavated
area to allow edging and drainage to extend beyond. Every
4' or so, use a perpendicular string line to check your progress.
If pavers are "lagging" behind the desired pattern,
carefully insert a small screw driver and work them forward
until they are in proper alignment. If bricks run slightly
ahead of the pattern, use a rubber mallet to nudge them into
place. Careful hand-setting should ensure an adequate fit
prior to final tamping.
A Word About Cutting Brick
Obviously, it's easier if you choose a pattern which
minimizes or eliminates cutting. If necessary, however,
brick can be roughcut using a broad blade chisel and a hammer.
For finer cuts, a brick splitter or power saw with a masonry
diamond blade (available at most equipment rental shops)
will do the job.
 STEP
7 The Final Details
Sweep the pavers, and then, using a vibratory plate compactor
(or, if you've used square-edged brick, a hand tamp or rubber
mallet), work from the perimeter inward, going over the surface
at least twice with 2"-4" overlaps each pass, until
the surface is level to your satisfaction.
Next, spread a thin layer of jointing sand and
use a stiff-bristle "street" broom to sweep and
tamp it into the joints until they are filled. After sweeping,
run the compactor across the surface a final time. If cracks
open up, sweep additional sand to fill them. Finish by sweeping
away the remaining sand, backfill around the perimeter with
top soil and sod or seed. Don't forget to water your plantings!
|
